This beautiful scarf is a perfect colorful complement to a gray rainy day. It is lightweight and the pearl colored lace section is a nice contrast to the gemstone colors of the yarn in the main part of the scarf. It is sure to bring a smile to the wearer’s face because, honestly, who doesn’t love a few pearls and gemstones hanging around their neck?
Materials:
- 2 skeins/330m fine (2) weight yarn (pictured: Deborah Norville Serenity Garden in Gems)
- ½ skein/105m super fine (1) weight yarn (pictured: Deborah Norville Serenity Sock Weight in Soft White)
- I hook
- Yarn needle
Notes: This scarf can be made in a variety of colors and yarn types. These particular yarns were chosen for the colors (and honestly, for the fact that they were already in my stash). Gauge is not terribly important and the scarf can be changed to match your desired dimensions. You will, however, want to have a strong color contrast between the yarn of the main body of the scarf and the yarn of the lace section.
This scarf is worked in two sections. The first section is a simple double crochet rectangle. The second section, which will be worked into the beginning ch of the first section, is done in a pretty lace stitch. The two ends will then be joined together to create an infinity scarf. The scarf will measure 11” x 60” before the ends are joined.
Scarf
Ch 43 (or multiple of 10 + 3 if you want it narrower or wider)
Row 1: dc in 4th chain from hook (counts as 2 dc), dc in each ch across (41), ch 3, turn
Row 2: dc in each stitch across (41), ch 3, turn
Row 3 - 90: repeat row 2, at the end of row 90 fasten off and weave in ends. This section of the scarf should measure about 11” x 45” when not stretched.
Lace Section
Row 91: with the right side facing, attach second yarn to the beginning chain, sc in the first 2 chain stitches, ch 3, skip 2 chain stitches, *sc in the next 3 chain stitches, ch 3, skip 2 chain stitches, repeat from * ending with a sc in each of the last 2 chain stitches, ch 1, turn
Row 92: skip first sc, sc in next stitch, 1 sc in ch 3 space, * ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in ch 3 space, sc in next 3 stitches, sc in ch 3 space, repeat from * ending with sc in the last ch 3 space, sc in the next stitch, sc in the turning ch, ch 1, turn
Row 93: skip first sc, sc in the next stitch, *ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in ch 3 space, sc in dc, sc in ch 3 space, ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in the next 3 stitches, repeat from * ending with sc in the last stitch, sc in the turning ch 1, ch 6, turn
Row 94: skip first 2 sc, *sc in ch 3 space, sc in the next 3 stitches, sc in the ch 3 space, ch 3, skip 1 sc, dc in the next stitch, ch 3, skip 1 sc, repeat from * ending with a dc in the turning ch 1, ch 1, turn
Row 95: skip first dc, *sc in the ch 3 space, ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in the next 3 stitches, ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in the ch 3 space, sc in the dc, repeat from * ending with sc in the ch 6 space, sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 6, ch 1, turn
Row 96 - 147: Repeat row 92-95 (there will be 14 repeats of the pattern at the end of row 147)
Row 148: work 41 sc along the top edge (sc in each stitch and work 2 sc into each ch 3 space) to give you a solid place to sew or slip stitch the two ends of the scarf together. The lace section should be about 12” long before it is blocked (15” after). It will be narrower than the double crochet section at about 9”.
Finishing
Block the scarf, if desired. The double crochet section doesn’t really need blocking in the particular yarn used here, but I strongly recommend steam blocking the lace section to open up the stitches. Simply pin the section to a heat safe surface (like an ironing board) and use an iron set to steam just above the crochet work. Do not touch the iron to the yarn! Once cooled, sew or slip stitch the two ends together, being careful not to twist the scarf.
